Buying a leather jacket

Decide the job first: office over a shirt, train commute, or riding. Each job suggests a different minimum thickness and a different tolerance for weight.

Pre-purchase checklist

• Label names the hide, not only "genuine leather"
• Panels feel similar thickness; no cardboard-stiff placket beside soft body
• Lining intact at pocket bags; no blown-out corners
• Zipper tracks line up when closed; pull does not snag lining
• Shoulders right on body; plan only small tailoring
• Return window if mail order; bracket sizes when unsure

"Italian leather" and heritage tags

Country labels describe tanning tradition, not a magic softness. Rub the panel. Flex it. Look inside the seam allowance if the shop allows it. A famous name with crooked bar tacks is still a bad buy.